As I am writing this, I have been on the road for 10 weeks, and I have written a lot, but this is the first time I’m working on the blog itself. I have had a kind of writer’s block, some refusal to even begin working on it that I can’t quite put my finger on. Even tonight, I have been wanting to write all night, but now it’s 10pm as I begin. So, let’s get some words on paper and see if that makes it all flow better.

I’m partway through the Old Telegraph Track (OTT) on Cape York and tonight I have had one of those pure joy, epiphany moments. I stopped a little bit earlier than usual at a camp-site beside Cockatoo Creek Crossing. The sun was setting through the trees where my gear was drying, it was deliciously warm, I’d just been for a swim and was cooking… and I finally felt completely at peace with the world.

It was a hard day of riding, in all honesty probably the hardest day I have done so far. Despite ostensibly riding towards this track for the last 10 weeks and planning to come here for the last 10 years, I still wasn’t sure if I would do it or take the (slightly) maintained Peninsula Development Road (PDR) the bypasses it. Have the bike fully loaded in adventure mode seriously compromises its ability. There are also quite a number of rivers that need to be crossed and I wasn’t sure of the river levels or crossing conditions!

Fortunately, I awoke one morning to find the truck of one of the organised motorcycle adventure tour companies parked outside the camping area. I roused myself and wandered blearily out to chat to one of the support drivers. He told me I should be fine on the southern part of the track but after Fruitbat Falls, there is a river that is still too high to cross unsupported. So armed with some local knowledge, here I am, attempting the southern part of the OTT, fully loaded.

The bike has been an absolute handful today. Deep sand, river crossings, snakes, rocks and mud. But I got through it all, and I am feeling very proud of myself. The first crossing at Palm Creek was pretty gnarly. I walked it a couple of times until I found a line that I liked. But it was sketchy and ran along a narrow ridge, with a steep drop-off on one side and a close tree on the other. I didn’t trust the stability of the bike with all the gear on, or the weight on the rear tyre once I got to the bottom and into the sandy mud.

Pride and impatience warred with caution as I stood on the bank, weighing up the options. But in the end, I resentfully dragged all the luggage off and trudged it down and through the river and up the far side, testing out my (surprisingly) waterproof boots in the process! Then I wrestled the bike down the precarious route, through the river and up the other side to my gear. It went very smoothly, but it was vindicating to see 4wds struggling with the same crossing! A few even threw the towel in and turned around at this point to take the easier Development Road.

It was slow and steady most of the day, with a few close calls in the deep sand. With all the gear on, Rusty just sinks into the sand and sometimes gets a nice big tank-slapper to keep my heart racing! But overall, I was really happy with the riding and how the bike handled. It was mostly challenging, but there were some really fun moments mixed in. I think unloaded, even on a big bike like the DR650, it would be mostly fun with just a bit of challenge! It’s made me determined to come back with a support vehicle and my mates, so I have intentionally left a few things untouched (CREB track, Frenchman’s Track and the Northern OTT) so I have an excuse to come back.

I got stuck in Cockatoo Crossing (just before this camp) when the bike died mid-creek and wouldn’t start again. I knew it wasn’t deep enough for water to get in the intake or even on the spark plug, so I was confused! A couple of blokes helped me push it through and then I waited for it to dry, and it still wouldn’t start! I sat for ages, not wanting to flatten the battery, trying to puzzle it out. Then, just to be sure, I switched the fuel to reserve, and it started immediately. Apparently all the gnarly sand riding was draining my fuel much faster than expected. It was a good reminder to always check the basics first. And of course, it had to die in the river, not anywhere else I had been riding, that would have prompted me to check the fuel!

So now I am laying in my tent finishing up today’s blog post, sore, tired and extremely happy. The adventure is really beginning now!